It took me four visits to truly fall in love with Livorno. I first ventured to this region on the west coast of Italy in 2010 – drawn in, as most travelers are, by the leaning tower of Pisa, which is a 35-minute coach ride away. I was impressed by Pisa and the tower, of course, but Livorno itself didn’t immediately captivate me. I’d mistakenly viewed it simply as a port: somewhere to travel through to get to more exciting destinations. After a few trips spent exploring the Tuscan countryside and hearing great things about Livorno from the locals, though, I realized it was time to give the quaint port town an opportunity to charm me. And charm me, it did – I discovered some incredible local gems and a new favourite destination. Here are a few of my must-dos:

See the coast at Terrazza Mascagni

Terrazza Mascagni features a black-and-white, chessboard-style pavement that curves along the shoreline for 500m, offering ample rambling space for taking in the views. It’s iconic, but the area doesn’t feel like a tourist trap, as locals flock here for seaside strolls.

Explore the canals

Livorno's historic canals with charming waterfront buildings and boats.
Livorno's historic canals with charming waterfront buildings and boats.

I discovered the Venezia Nuova area during a tour of the medieval fort, Fortezza Nuova. The fort itself is worth a visit, but I was more enamored by the canals and cafes surrounding it. It’s the perfect spot to stop for a gelato.

Start your Livorno adventure

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Stop for a slice

Pizzeria Il Ventaglio: the name itself makes my stomach rumble. Located at Via Grande 145, this family-run pizzeria offers delicious food at incredible prices. I’m still working my way through the menu, but I'm a huge believer that you can’t go wrong with a simple pepperoni.

Visit a market stall

Mercato Centrale, on the Scali Aurelio Saffi, is a daily stop for locals nipping in to buy anything from dinner to clothing. Somehow, I left without spending all of my savings.

Tour from a trolley

The Leaning Tower of Pisa, surrounded by lush greenery and historic buildings.
The Leaning Tower of Pisa, surrounded by lush greenery and historic buildings.

No trip to Pisa would be complete without a selfie in front of the leaning tower – you can see this, the Field of Miracles and noted holy buildings Duomo di Pisa and the Pisa Baptistery from a cute trolley on a Princess excursion of the area.